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Restore an Antique Camera

Restore an Antique CameraPerhaps you found it in an attic, or you've just rushed home from an auction, or a yard sale with your treasure--a vintage camera. Upon close examination, perhaps your enthusiasm changed to dismay as you noticed the scratches and scars on the outer casing, the tarnished metal parts, and the dry, brittle bellows. These are honorable scars, attesting to many years of faithful service. Don't be discouraged. A few hours of work can make an amazing difference in the appearance of your camera.

The first thing that needs attention is the leather covering of the camera. Repairing the covering first will help to keep pieces of leather from breaking off as you handle the camera. If the covering is separating from the camera body, gently lift it as far from the body as you can without breaking it, and brush or blow away any accumulation of dried glue or dirt. Then glue the covering back in place with white glue. When the leather covering is in safe condition for handling, remove all the parts that will need attention. On most cameras, the lens and shutter assembly are held in place by a retaining ring inside the bellows. Close the bellows as far as possible, and remove the retaining ring from inside the back of the camera. Then remove the lens and shutter assembly. With those cameras that have a separate lens and shutter, you can leave the lens mounted right in the camera body when you remove the shutter. On most other cameras, the lens board is attached to the bellows by several screws. Remove the lens board and slide it off the focusing track. If you remove the sliding bars that lock the front cover open, you can swing the cover out of the way and have better access to the bellows. Next, remove any metal parts from the outside of the camera. This will allow you to re-dye the camera covering without getting dye on the metal parts. You'll also be able to clean the metal parts much more easily without damaging the covering material.

 
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Canvas Printing

Printing on canvas is incredibly versatile and a great way to create a ready-to-hang image or artwork. Every canvas that we print  is protected with a UV coated acrylic finish to guard the print from dust, moisture and fading. Do you want your canvas stretched on bars or non-stretched? Framed or unframed? Customize the work to make it truly your own.

 
Art Prints – How are they made?

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Photography by Laurie Barone-Shafer
Nowadays just about anyone can take a good quality photographs with a digital camera. Or take a few hundred pictures and the chances are few will be good, and even one or two outstanding.

Here are a few tips, tricks and techniques on how to make art print poster ready photographs and print ready digital files. Don’t get overwhelmed, there is a lot of information here, but a lot of it is just intuitive. Well, a bit of patience will always help.

First thing – Photo Size

If you taking a digital photo of you family or friend the largest size you would print is usually 5 by 7 inches, maybe 8 by 10 at the most. Even small size digital photographs (2MB or less) are ‘good enough’ to create a decent print. But if you want to create prints that are 16 by 20, 20 by 24 inches or larger you need more pixels (in pixels 20 by 24 inches photo is actually about 40 times larger than 3 by 4 inches photo assuming they have the same resolution).

 
Learning to Paint Watercolors

Watercolor is an easy, fun medium for creating art.  Color theory, composition and design can be explored freely with watercolor paint, paper, and brushes.  Several techniques may be used with watercolors for varying effects including painting wet on wet, wet on dry, layering washes, and more.

Watercolor paper comes in cold press, hot press, and rough.  Rough paper has the most texture, and its hills and valleys can result in interesting effects when paint is added.  Hot press is the smoothest and has the finest texture.  Cold press has a moderate amount of texture and is the paper most commonly chosen by watercolor artists.

Watercolor paper comes in several weights ranging from 90 lb. to 300 lb. based on the pounds per ream of paper.  Most artists prefer to use at least 140 lb. paper.  Papers vary somewhat between manufacturers, so sampling different papers is advisable.  Paper can be purchased in pads, in blocks or in large sheets.  The large sheets are usually the most economical and can be torn into whatever size is desired.

 
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